Paris Men'S Wear Week: Emerging Designer Brands Emerge

• Eight luxury brands gathered and Saint Laurent returned after five years' absence
• Men's fashion from "street style" to "refined style"
• Four Chinese designer brands enter the official agenda
• Emerging designer brands emerge
• Many brands have changed from Women's Wear Week to Men's Wear Week
  
  

Eight luxury brands gathered, Saint Laurent returns after five years of absence

Men's fashion from "street style" to "refined style"

After being dominated by street style for many years, men's clothing began to turn to a more refined style.

Since Matthew Williams took over the design work in 2020, French luxury brand Givenchy Successfully created a series of casual style clothes. However, in the autumn and winter 2023 series, Matthew Williams chose a more fashionable and sexy style, with black suits paired with turtlenecks, and even more casual shorts and hoodies paired with elegant long coats.

Above: Givenchy men's ready to wear series in autumn and winter 2023

Purchasing Director of Lafayette Paris Alice Feillard Said before Men's Wear Week:“ Saint Laurent, Gucci and Givenchy now make men's clothes even better than women's clothes. "

Above: Givenchy men's ready to wear series in autumn and winter 2023

French new brand Bluemarble Of designer Anthony Alvarez It brings a relaxed party atmosphere to the Paris Cathedral near the Champs Elysees, showing the unique autumn and winter colors. Colored fur is flexible and elegant in the cold wind, bright satin embroidered beaded jacket is exquisite and handsome, and colorful ink dyed down jacket is dotted with functional wind knots

However, suits still have a place in tie dyeing, rainbow colors, sequins, shawls and oversized faux fur coats. Backstage, Anthony Alvarez described his series of styles as "between the vitality of New Orleans Carnival and the mystery of Venice Carnival". But he said:“ More suits than usual 。 This cut represents European fashion, but I redesigned the suit with loose cut. "

British designers brand Bianca Saunders Is the first Three shows in Paris. The brand's latest series is full of mint flavor and fresh atmosphere. The minimalist aesthetics presented by the designer effortlessly shuttle between different cultures, subtly conveying her British and Jamaican backgrounds.

The first model of the series is a tailored suit. The designer uses clean lines to reflect minimalism, which is, in Saunders' words“ Solved the tension between tradition and modernity ”。

Above: Bianca Saunders Autumn and Winter 2023 Series

Japanese designer brand Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME（ Yoji Yamamoto) The inspiration for the 2023-24 autumn and winter men's wear series comes from the Silk Road connecting Asia and Europe.

Yohji Yamamoto series is made of high-quality and expensive materials such as Japanese silk, velvet and heavy brocade, with rich colors and distinct layers. Jackets, pants, coats and other pieces use the double-sided fabric "ikat", which symbolizes the ancient integration of Asian and European cultures. The designer believes that "culture is a mixture of everything, and materials have no boundaries." In his series of works, each garment shows a journey through different cultures and traditions.

The series also focuses on narrow jackets, which are decorated with ribbons; Or the loose single breasted plaid jacket is folded, and the chest pocket is decorated with hand embroidery. Japanese denim is also used as a scarf or shawl in a way that is not casual.

Above: Yohji Yamamoto 2023-24 Autumn and Winter Men's Wear Series

Louis Vuitton This season with guest designers Colm Dillane Cooperation, which is the first time for the brand to cooperate with external designers to design men's wear series after Virgil Abloh. Louis Vuitton takes "Tracing Childhood" as the theme, and the childlike elements such as toy cars and plush toys are transformed into the show set, showing the growth path of children through separate rooms. Colm Dillane pays homage to Virgil Abloh in this series, who emphasizes the importance of remembering and cherishing childhood.

One of the highlights of this series is the hand-painted art of Colm Dillane's own brand KidSuper. The models walked off the stage in loose suits, windbreakers and fluffy jackets. From overalls to Keepall travel bags and suede jackets, they were all printed with eye-catching face prints, which were integrated with Louis Vuitton's iconic patterns and wild colors such as lavender, neon green and orange.

Above: Louis Vuitton men's clothing series in autumn and winter 2023

Saint Laurent The autumn and winter 2023/24 men's wear series is mainly in black and white, continuing the brand's consistent "gender mobility dialogue", and showing the brand's most famous Unisex style 。 Saint Laurent integrates more on the basis of structured outline and smooth lines Women's elements This is evident in the proportion of clothing and the concept of body wrapping, which is more refined and elegant.

Above: Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2023/24 Men's Wear Series

French new brand EgonLab also More women's clothing elements, such as deep V neckline, faux fur, tights, suspenders, etc., are integrated into this season, and the brand tries to create gender free clothing.

Above: EgonLab 2023 Autumn Series

French designer brand Louis Gabriel Nouchi Once again, he created the latest series with a book as the theme, inspired by the delirious and ferocious executive image described by Bret Easton Ellis in American Psycho. In Louis Gabriel Nouchi's design, the white shirt matches with the killer's black gloves, and the double breasted wool coat and long skirt remind people of the killer in the 1980s.

Four Chinese designer brands enter the official agenda

It is worth mentioning that Chinese designer brands Feng Chen Wang 、 SANKUANZ (Shangguan Zhe) 、 SEAN SUEN (Sun Xiaofeng) and ZIGGY CHEN It was selected into the official agenda of this Paris Men's Wear Week to release the latest series of the brand through fashion shows or static exhibitions.

On the evening of January 18, Feng Chen Wang The brand Autumn and Winter 2023 series "Meet and Sew" was released in the form of catwalk. "Sewing", which means sewing and weaving, is a metaphor for instinctive spontaneous expression after "meeting", which is the core concept of designers this season. This series shows the designer's vision of connecting individuals, culture and community as well as time. She combines traditional Chinese technology with modern Western style, from male/female, eastern/western, to traditional and modern, clearly showing the brand's open discussion on gender.

In terms of design, the unique tailoring and the use of denim make this series show the integration of retro and modern, and the cold and warm colors are also mixed.

In traditional Chinese culture, when a child is born a hundred days ago, parents will sew the cloth collected from hundreds of families into a "hundred family robe". The designer gets inspiration from it and uses the surplus fabric from the previous season series of the brand to splice into clothes.

Above: Feng Chen Wang 2023 Autumn Winter Series

In this series, the brand's iconic "phoenix" pattern appears, symbolizing the combination of yin and yang. The use of traditional Chinese knot elements also represents the importance of connection in this era of increasingly divided society.

Feng Chen Wang also released co branded shoes with Nike. The designer reinterpreted Nike's Air Max 97 and other shoes with Feng Chen Wang's iconic pattern Phoenix and classic cutting and deconstruction, echoing the theme of "meet and sew".

Above: Feng Chen Wang and Nike co branded shoes

January 21st ， SANKUANZ (Shangguan Zhe) hair Cloth brand autumn and winter 2023 series, including men's and women's clothing. The designer integrates street culture and high fashion in this series, with dark colors as the main color. The clothes such as black tuxedo, wide pants, black tights, low neckline brown coat and so on shape the "killer" image.

Above: SANKUANZ Autumn and Winter 2023 Series

SEAN SUEN (Sun Xiaofeng) The autumn and winter 2023 series is inspired by the traditional Yi costumes in Daliang Mountain in western China. It is mainly black, integrating high saturation colors, to show the aesthetic characteristics of the Yi people. The designer reinterpreted the traditional cold proof clothing of the Yi people, such as "Bi felt" and "Tuta" of the ancient war sword, with modern tailoring. The use of cold proof fabrics such as leather and wool also increased the practicality of the clothing.

The inspiration for accessories comes from the natural spirit advocated by the Yi people in Daliang Mountain. The sun, moon, stars, flowers, birds, fish, grass and other images are all used to make silver ornaments. The designer hopes to inspire people to feel the beauty of all creatures.

Above: SEAN SUEN 2023 Autumn Winter Series

ZIGGY CHEN The autumn and winter 2023-24 men's/women's wear series "VIGLUMSY" uses "Vigorous" and "Clumsiness" as inspiration words to inject the memory of old and unsophisticated items into clothing. The designer adds details such as tearing effect, fragmentary patterns and irregular folds to the clothes, so as to preserve the original temperament of the items in the exploration.

ZIGGY CHEN uses flax, one of the designer's favorite fabrics, in this series, which is combined with wool, cashmere and high-quality cotton of different thicknesses, with unique texture. The brand has specially developed two kinds of fine velvet fabrics for this series, the patterns are monochrome printing and stripes, and the surface of the fabric will have a cracking luster after the crimping and trimming treatment. In terms of color, it is dominated by deep unsaturated dark red and brown, and blended with the brand's iconic olive green.

Above: ZIGGY CHEN 2023-24 Autumn and Winter Men's/Women's Wear Series

Emerging designer brands emerge

Also returning to this Paris Men's Wear Week are a number of young brands, such as Dutch designer Botter, French designer Marine Serre, Bluemarble and Casablanca.

American menswear brands Bode Also on January 21, a catwalk was held. Emily Adams Bode, a New York designer, founded this menswear brand in 2016, which featured its retro patchwork fabrics, just won the 2022 CFDA Award of the American Association of Fashion Designers. In 2019, Bode participated in Paris Fashion Week for the first and only time.

Bianca Saunders and Grace Wales Bonner Young British designer brands, such as, have also attracted attention at this menswear week. British designer Grace Wales Bonner was invited to participate in the Pitti Uomo Florence Men's Wear Exhibition as a guest designer in June 2022. He held a grand show on the opening night of this Paris Men's Wear Week. Another 17 young British designers will exhibit their works in London showroom in Paris.

include White Mountaineering and Sacai Some Japanese brands also returned to this Men's Wear Week, which was held on January 21 and 22 respectively.

Above: Wales Bonner Autumn/Winter 2023 Men's Wear Series

The British Fashion Council, in cooperation with the trade show Trano ï Men, opened in Garage Amelot from January 19 to 22 London showroom , on display seventeen The autumn and winter 2023 men's wear series of British cutting-edge designers are Abigail Ajobi, Adam Jones, Andrej Gronau, Carlota Barrera, Charlie Constantinou, Chloe Nardin, Derrick, Florian Wowretzko, Helen Kirkum, House of Jaffa, Jekeun, Laughesen, Loci, Lula Laura, Lyph, Miles George Daniel and Toron

Due to the Brexit and the epidemic, London showroom once missed the Paris Men's Wear Week. This is the first time London showroom has returned to Paris since June 2019.

Since 2008, the British Fashion Association has held London Fashion Showroom during Paris Fashion Week to provide a display platform for new British designers and brands outside the country and promote them to international media and buyers. This is also part of the BFC's support and guidance programme.

This menswear week will also open an upgraded "designer exhibition hall" Sph è re. The exhibition hall is jointly operated by F é d é ration de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM/Paris Federation of Advanced Customization and Fashion) and Defi, and shows the most potential young designers' works in Paris every season. A total of 8 brands were selected in this season, including Uniform, Arturo Obegero, Christoph Rumpf, Jeanne Friot, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Ponder.er, Steven Passaro and Valette Studio.

Many brands have changed from Women's Wear Week to Men's Wear Week

French luxury brand under Italian OTB Group Maison Margiela As the closing brand of this menswear exhibition, a catwalk activity was held on the evening of January 22. In the past, Maison Margiela held mixed shows at Paris Women's Wear Week to display its men's ready to wear collections, but this season the brand turned to Men's Wear Week.

Other brands moving from Women's Week to Men's Week include Botter and French fashion brand Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Botter In January 2020, he made his debut on the show of Men's Wear Week, and in 2022, he chose to hold the show in Women's Wear Week. Two Dutch designers Lisi Herrebrough and Rushemy Botter founded Botter in 2017, won the Hy è res Festival Award in 2018, and won the French ANDAM Fashion Award in 2022. From 2018 to 2021, the two served as French designer brands Nina Ricci Art director of. In this season's Paris Men's Wear Week, Botter held the latest series of catwalk activities on January 20.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin This year, we will return to Men's Wear Week like Botter. In June 2019, Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his first appearance in Paris Men's Wear Week, and in 2021, he will turn to show in Women's Wear Week. In December 2022, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the founder of the brand, was just appointed as the creative director of the Belgian designer brand Ann Demeulemeester. Ludovic de Saint Sernin brand show was held on January 22.

But there are also brands that do the opposite. Belgian designer brand Y/Project switched from Men's Week to Women's Week this season. Since 2021, Y/Project has held two men's and women's clothing conferences in January and June every year. On January 11, the brand announced on the official Instagram that it would launch the autumn and winter 2023 series at the Paris Women's Wear Week in February this year.